Middle Eastern brands are popping out like mushrooms every year at niche perfume exhibitions like Esxence. The most narrow-minded visitors are usually quick to dismiss them by thinking that they are all the same. Well, this isn't true and there are many examples of great quality and creativity from Middle Eastern brands. It's not all just diamonds and gold. There are fabulous scents to be found, and not all of them are traditional Arab perfumes or ouds. Welcome to one of my best finds from the last edition of Esxence: S. Ishira, a young but great brand from Qatar.
It was without anticipation or preconceived ideas that I approached the S. Ishira stand. As soon as I arrived, I was welcomed by women in veils and scarves, traditionally dressed in Arabian clothing. Behind the dark and luxurious pieces of fabric I could see that they were beautiful. One of them approached me and it was the founder of the brand, Shaikha Al Misned. We didn't have much time to talk but she offered me samples of the entire Phi Collection, which I have been wearing very often since March. Some of these scents became almost like signatures for special occasions.
"A brand new interpretation of ardent and regal scents, S.Ishira embodies a true but unique essence of luxurious perfumery. With an ambitious vision of creating niche perfumes, S. Ishira promises to carry a traditional yet exotic brand to international audiences with a range of glamorous perfumes right from oriental to contemporary scents." S. Ishira
The S. Ishira brand had been launched before, but the house is now looking for distributors in Europe and the USA, so their presence in Milan was important to establish a large distribution. S. Ishira wants to be a niche brand with a commercial approach and not only in the Middle East, but everywhere. This goes hand in hand with the perfumes themselves, which are oriental by nature but not traditional in composition. Yes, oud and saffron are stars, but the result is very modern and not exactly what we would expect. Exotic is the best word to describe them.
S. Ishira claims to be a pioneer manufacturer of perfumes based on the golden ratio concept. The golden ratio (the symbol is the Greek letter "phi" which gives the name to this line of fragrances) is a special number approximately equal to 1.618. It appears frequently in geometry, art, architecture, nature and other areas. As an art critic, the golden ratio is something I know from classic painting, for example. I have never understood it completely since abstract thinking is something I lack, but it has to do with harmony in composition and proportions, which creates a form that is naturally appealing to the human perception. Its core is mathematics: two quantities are in the golden ratio if their ratio is the same as the ratio of their sum to the larger of the two quantities. But what does this have to do with perfumery? "We created a new concept of producing combinations of ingredients in perfumes using the ‘golden ratio’. This special method, which is different to those used in the perfumery schools in France or across our region, uses mathematics to achieve organic harmony in compositions. It has been adopted across a wide range of fields and areas of expertise, from cooking to handicrafts," says Shaikha Al Misned.
After several years of learning and reviewing the intricacies and art of perfume creation, S. Ishira reflects the dreams and ambition of a conservative woman, Shaikha Al Misned, in creating a perfume brand. The line "represents Shaikha’s vision of creating a brand that appeals to the elite, all over the world, with her professionalism in modern Arab perfumery", according to the brand. Shaikha has always had a good sense of smell. "I was able to develop this further when I was studying aromatherapy. I also used to have difficulty finding a scent that I really liked, so I decided to learn more about natural perfumery from experts working in this field. I specialized in aroma molecules, which are key components in the world of fragrances and flavors, and decided to establish a business that united all these 'hobbies' that I had." And that's the birth of S. Ishira, a name which means Sirius, the brightest star in the earth’s night sky. It draws on the idea of ‘1001 Nights’ and the Middle East in general.
The PHI Collection, S. Ishira
Leather of Dahman
"The legendary Dahman strain of Arabian horses trotted along the deserts, in all their glory, beauty and robustness, inspiring the meticulous creation of something mythical. The distinct leather notes of this rare perfume, clubbed with dark chocolate and pure frankincense, beautifully narrates tales of the uncompromised magnificence of the Dahman."
My review: This is an extraordinary scent that presents leather in a new interpretation. Powdery and intense, it balances spicy-floral elements with the sharpness of oud and leather accords. There is a very interesting chemical facet that is startling. Something that resembles the smell of alkyl nitrites (poppers) and turns this into a conceptual thing that could come from Comme des Garçons or even Etat Libre d'Orange. Very edgy and sexy, provocative even, I would say. All of this quirkiness comes enveloped in incense smoke. I couldn't smell chocolate, but I do get some violet and rose shades.
Safarjal
"A whiff of Safarjal gently guides you through the depths of your senses, searching for a path to tread, on a gentle, floral and fruity journey. As you warm up to the prominent yet subtle notes of quince, peonies and dates, this delicate fragrance promises to tantalize and relax your mind in an intense yet delicate manner."
My Review: This has to be the single peony fragrance that I love. Peonies are my nemesis and here they are drenched in sweet jams and dried fruits. The result is innovative and surprising. The freshness of the flower is counterbalanced with the thickness of quince and mostly dates. When all of this comes mixed with amber and oud, it results in a paradoxical concoction. There is something sweet, something juicy, something sour, buttery and animalic. Safarjal is very original and it's one of those fragrances that keep you sniffing in order to get a better grasp of it.
Oud Nader
"Making its way through traditional Oud kingdoms, from the most premium distilleries, comes an exclusive and impressionable scent. The compelling Oud Nader comes with a lighter twist, speckled with elusive under notes of clary sage and orchids and transforms into a contemporary yet mystifying crowd pleaser."
My review: Not the traditional Middle Eastern oud. This is, in fact, a wink to the European fantasies of oud that we got used to in niche and mainstream perfumery nowadays. Nevertheless, it keeps a richness that is uncommon. While it is still animalic by nature, it holds a freshness that makes it wearable. The mix of clary sage and leather accords is perfect and brings a classic feel to it. It smells like real oud, diluted to elegance and twisted for smoothness. It is also a bit powdery and metallic, showing a delicate balance of notes.
Vanilya
"From the ancient days of cultivating Vanilla, this fragrance perfectly captures the essence of its roots and uniquely blends it with plums and notes of powder. The oriental signature of bourbon vanilla generates an addiction of sorts, impressing with its clean scent and graceful, refined after effects."
My review: There is not much more to it than pure vanilla. Sweet, creamy and slightly powdery, Vanilya is warm and soft, almost gourmand but not really foody. It also shows something in common with all of the other editions of the brand and I think that oud is the key for this common DNA.
Maroony
"Centuries ago, Ambergris was a renowned ingredient in the Arab world, with nobles and royalty using it as part of their daily rituals. Capitalizing on this traditional Arabian love for floating gold, the special edition Maroony uses amber to reveal untainted perfection in a signature and classic fragrance."
My review: For me, this is the least interesting perfume of S. Ishira, but if you are into salty, metallic, marine scents, it might be perfect. My brain smells this purely as the Ultrazur molecule. I don't think that this smells much of ambergris to be honest. I only smell this aroma chemical and that's it. Marine, salty, with notes of seaweed and sea breeze.
Zafaran Elixir
"The Arabian Desert settled into a whirlwind of luxurious ingredients like Saffron, Rose Otto and Tonka beans, demystifying the extravagant aromas of the Zafaran perfume, while gradually settling into this exquisite bottle of pure indulgence."
My review: A glorious saffron perfume that is maybe one of the best I have ever smelled in this category. It's spicy-cold with strong powdery notes and a vintage sensation, while it keeps a Middle Eastern signature with its rich rose shades. The quality of the ingredients here is superb and the outcome is absolutely impressive. It is opulent and elegant. Like a traditional combo of rose and saffron, twisted to modernity with a nod to the past. I can smell the distinctive core that I now recognize as S. Ishira's style of metallic powderiness and woody tones. Strong, assertive and yet perfectly balanced and regal, this is a masterpiece.
All in all I loved the whole collection of S. Ishira (except for Maroony, but that's a matter of personal taste) and I would recommend it to anyone who is into oriental fragrances with a traditional element, although it ends up being much more than that. Some of these fragrances are very unusual and innovative, making us indulge in their beauty while keeping us wondering about their structure. In the future, S. Ishira plans on expanding the perfume line into other products like scented candles and I can hardly wait for what's to come.
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S. Ishira: Math Smells Good!